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HOW   TO    MAKE 
SCHOOL  GARDENS 

A  MANUAL  FOR  TEACHERS 
AND    PUPILS 


BY 


H.  D.  HEMENWAY,  B.  S. 

Director  of 
Hartford  School  of  Horticulture 


3IIujstrateU 


NEW  YORK 

DOUBLEDAY,  PAGE  &  COMPANY 

1903 


6ENERAL 


Copyright,  igoj,  by 

Doubleday,  Paee  &  Company 

Published,  May,  1903 


CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Introduction xiii 

CHAPTER 

I.     How  to  Make  a  School  Garden     .         .  i 

II.     How  to  Prepare  and  Fertilize  the  Land  11 

III.      Lessons    in     Garden    Work         .         .  21 

IV.  Lessons  in  Greenhouse  Work ;  Plant- 
ing Seed,  Potting,  Shifting  and 
Taking  Cuttings  .  x.  .  .61 

V.     Root-Grafting 75 

VI.     Budding 91 

VII.     School  Garden  Bibliography          .         .  97 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

Marking  Off  the  Garden  at  Hyannis 
(Mass.)  Normal  School— Second 
Grade  Children  .  .  .  Frontispiece 

FACING  PAGE 

All  Staked  Ready  for  Planting         ...         4 

Plan  for  Development   of  Grounds,    Oakdale 

School,  East  Dedham,  Mass.    ...         8 

Preparing     the     Ground,      Whittier      School, 

Hampton,  Va. 14 

71    Gardens,    10x170    Feet,    National    Caih 

Register  Company,  Dayton,  Ohio     .         .       24 

Receiving  Directions        .....       24 
His  Own  Raising  .          .....       44 

School-Garden  Exhibit,  School  of  Horticulture, 

Hartford,  Conn.      .....       60 

A   School  Garden  in  the  Business  Centre  of 

Cleveland— Rockwell  School    ...       80 

The  Fun  of  Making  a  Garden.  "  The  Chil- 
dren Tackled  the  Soil  with  Such  Weapons 
As  They  Could  Muster "  .  .  .80 

How  to  Make  School  Gardens  (cut  ofi) 


PREFACE 

THIS  little  manual  has  grown  out  of 
the  experience  of  the  author  in  children's 
garden  work,  and  is  the  answer  to  the 
many  inquiries  which  are  received  from 
various  points  all  over  the  country  from 
persons  who  are  enthusiastic  and  realize 
the  purpose  and  advantages  of  the  school- 
garden  movement,  but  who  have  not  had 
the  agricultural  advantages  and  training 
to  understand  the  best  methods  of  making 
and  conducting  a  garden  so  as  to  get  good 
results  from  an  agricultural  and  horticul- 
tural standpoint.  It  is  hoped  that  this 
little  book  will  be  an  inspiration  to  begin- 
ners in  the  school-garden  movement,  and 
an  aid  to  those  who  already  have  school 
and  children's  gardens,  so  that  they  can 
obtain  the  best  results  from  agricul- 
tural, esthetic  and  educational  stand- 
xi 


Xll  PREFACE 

points,  and  so  that  they  can  better  train 
the  head,  the  heart  and  the  hand. 

The  first  chapters  explain  something  of 
the  development  of  the  school-garden 
movement  and  how  to  make  a  school 
garden,  while  the  remaining  chapters  are 
lessons  in  garden  work.  It  is  hoped  these 
simple  lessons  will  be  of  value;  but,  as 
every  locality  is  different  and  the  climatic 
and  soil  conditions  vary,  it  may  be  found 
necessary  to  vary  the  directions  some, 
the  crops  raised,  and  the  size  of  the 
gardens,  the  latter  of  necessity  depending 
upon  the  size  of  the  grounds. 

H.  D.  HEMENWAY. 
School   of   Horticulture, 
Hartford,  Conn.,  1903. 


INTRODUCTION 

THE  idea  of  having  a  garden  connected 
with  the  school  is  a  very  old  one. 
Gardening  was  practised  in  some  European 
schools  many  years  ago,  and  was  carried 
on  often  for  the  purpose  of  increasing  the 
salary  of  the  teacher  or  for  furnishing 
products  for  him.  In  other  schools 
there  were  botanical  gardens  where  the 
specimens  could  be  studied  by  the  pupils. 
The  school-garden  movement  as  it  exists 
to-day  is  of  more  recent  origin,  beginning 
about  thirty-five  years  ago.  The  progress 
has  been  most  rapid  in  Europe,  where 
there  are  to-day  more  than  one  hundred 
thousand  school  gardens;  France  alone 
has  more  than  twenty-eight  thousand,  and 
in  Russia,  as  in  several  other  countries,  no 
school  will  be  accepted  by  the  state  to 
receive  state  funds  unless  a  garden  is 
connected  with  it.  In  America,  the  school- 
xiii 


XIV  INTRODUCTION 

garden  movement  is  of  recent  origin,  but 
it  is  gaining  ground  rapidly. 

As  sixty-five  per  cent,  of  our  exports 
are  products  of  the  farm,  it  is  almost 
alarming  to  think  that  so  few  of  our 
children  know  anything  about  them. 
One  reason  why  nearly  ninety  per  cent, 
of  the  successful  business  men  of  to-day 
were  brought  up  on  the  farm  is  because 
of  the  productive  industry  taught  in 
early  childhood  in  farm  life.  There  is  no 
kind  of  training  that  squares  itself  for 
all-round  development  like  agriculture. 
The  farmers'  boys  are  brought  up  to  use 
their  hands  as  well  as  their  heads,  and 
learn  quick  observation  and  quick  decision, 
which  is  of  great  value  to  them  throughout 
their  lives.  The  child's  garden  certainly 
brings  his  life  more  nearly  to  that  of  the 
country  child  than  any  other  form  of 
study.  As  an  aid  to  nature-study  there 
is  nothing  to  equal  it.  It  can  be  used  to 
help  in  nearly  every  other  branch  of 
study  taught  in  the  schoolroom.  The 
practice  in  measuring  and  marking  out  the 


INTRODUCTION  XV 

gardens,  and  in  systematically  planting 
the  seed,  gives  the  child  the  practical 
mathematics  which  he  so  much  needs. 
Much  language  work  can  be  given  in 
connection  with  it;  in  fact,  it  can  be 
correlated  with  nearly  all  the  other 
branches,  as  it  furnishes  material  for 
writing,  painting,  drawing  and  geography. 
Even  business  can  be  taught,  as  is  done 
at  the  school  gardens  at  the  State  Normal 
School  at  Hyannis,  Mass.,  where  the 
products  of  the  gardens  are  sold,  the 
money  is  taken  to  the  bank  and  deposited, 
and  the  children  learn  the  method  of 
depositing  money  and  drawing  checks. 
The  systematic  care  of  tools  and  the 
systematic  order  of  doing  things,  and  the 
habits  of  close  observation  and  of  reporting 
observations,  acquired  by  the  child,  will 
form  a  trait  which  will  be  invaluable  to 
him  throughout  life.  Where  gardens  have 
been  conducted  for  several  years,  long 
enough  to  make  practical  tests,  it  is 
found  that  the  boys  having  the  garden 
work  are  thirty  per  cent,  more  rapid  in 


XVI  INTRODUCTION 

mental,  moral  and  physical  development 
than  those  not  having  gardens.  The 
school  garden  tends  to  develop  the  best 
traits  in  the  children,  and  to  create  in 
them  a  love  for  the  beautiful.  It  gives 
play  to  all  their  motor  activities, 
and  shows  that  results  follow  causes, 
and  is  one  of  the  best  methods  of  curing 
them  of  stealing.  They  begin  to  under- 
stand something  of  ownership  and  respon- 
sibility, and  look  more  kindly  at  their 
neighbor's  products,  and,  as  they  do  not 
wish  to  lose  their  own,  that  for  which 
they  have  worked,  the  value  of  the 
product  of  another  is  more  forcibly 
demonstrated  to  them.  The  school 
garden  can  be  made  especially  valuable 
to  girls,  particularly  those  in  the  city,  as 
they  do  not  have  the  same  liberties  of 
the  street  as  have  boys,  and  are  in  the 
open  air  and  sunshine  all  too  little  for 
good,  strong  physical  development. 


How  to  Make  a  School  Garden 


CHAPTER  I 
How  TO  MAKE  A  SCHOOL  GARDEN 

PROBABLY  no  two  school  gardens 
can  be  made  exactly  the  same,  be- 
cause of  the  different  conditions  of 
space  and  exposures  and  the  difference 
in  the  surrounding  conditions,  all  of 
which  should  be  taken  into  considera- 
tion. In  making  the  school  garden, 
the  esthetic  side  should  not  be  lost 
sight  of,  nor  should  it  be  the  entire 
controlling  element;  but  let  the  esthetic 
and  the  agricultural  elements  harmonize. 
If  the  grounds  are  small  and  the  only 
space  for  a  garden  is  along  the  fence, 
of  course  there  is  no  choice;  and  if  this 
is  all  there  is,  that  should  be  utilized: 
much  good  can  be  accomplished  even  by 
working  in  a  very  small  space.  In  the 
absence  of  any  available  land  on  the 
3 


4  HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

school  grounds  the  use  of  a  nearby  vacant 
lot  can  often  be  obtained. 

For  lower  grades  it  probably  is  as  well 
to  have  a  general  bed  or  garden.  The 
conditions  of  every  place  will  have  to  be 
considered;  but  where  conditions  are 
favorable  for  the  individual  garden,  it 
gives  a  certain  amount  of  responsibility 
and  interest  that  the  general  garden  does 
not.  It  shows  exactly  what  the  individ- 
ual is  doing  and  helps  to  develop  the 
individuality  of  the  child.  Very  often, 
too,  the  excellence  of  several  of  these 
individual  gardens  will  inspire  those  to 
much  more  careful  work  who  naturally 
are  inclined  to  be  a  little  slack. 

Where  possible,  it  is  better  to  grow 
both  vegetables  and  flowers.  This  de- 
velops both  the  esthetic  and  the  prac- 
tical side  of  the  pupil,  and  soon  the  child 
who  does  not  love  flowers,  if  there  be 
such,  will  love  the  flowers  that  he  raises, 
and  in  so  loving  them  will  be  uplifted. 
In  growing  crops,  grow  common  things. 
Those  who  have  plenty  of  land  can  grow 


HOW  TO  MAKE  A  SCHOOL  GARDEN    5 

the  things'  that  are  uncommon;  but  it  is 
much  better  that  the  child  should  know 
the  common  things,  the  everyday  things 
of  life,  the  things  about  him,  than  to 
know  what  grows  in  Africa  or  China  or 
Japan.  After  he  knows  the  common 
things  he  can  learn  the  others,  if  there 
be  time  and  space. 

If  the  gardens  are  to  be  individual 
gardens,  they  should  be  staked  out  with 
a  stake  at  each  corner,  which  is  driven 
securely  into  the  ground.  One  of  these 
stakes  can  be  numbered;  or,  better  still, 
place  an  eighteen-inch  nursery  label  in 
the  front  centre  with  the  number  upon  it. 
It  is  easier  to  keep  track  of  the  pupils 
by  number  than  by  name,  especially  if 
there  are  many  of  them.  With  individual 
gardens,  they  may  vary  from  two  feet 
square  to  ten  by  one  hundred  and  ninety 
feet,  as  do  the  various  school  gardens  now 
in  existence  in  the  United  States.  Where 
the  gardens  are  of  large  size,  it  is  found 
easier  to  have  them  longer  than  wide. 
If  these  gardens  are  open  to  exposure  on 


6     HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

all  sides,  the  rows  should  run  either  north 
and  south  or  east  and  west.  With  the 
north  and  south  method,  the  sun  is  per- 
haps more  evenly  distributed  to  every 
crop,  as  it  goes  down  the  rows  between 
them  as  it  passes  in  its  journey.  If 
the  rows  run  east  and  west,  for  success 
it  is  necessary  to  plant  all  high-growing 
plants  on  the  north  side,  so  that  they  will 
not  shade  the  other  crops.  If  there  are 
to  be  several  rows  of  gardens,  this  will  not 
interfere  with  the  other  gardens,  as  the 
walk  will  be  wide  enough  to  take  the 
shadow.  Do  not  crowd.  It  is  better  to 
grow  a  few  crops  well  than  to  try  to  grow 
many  and  not  succeed. 

It  is  not  generally  wise  to  use  toy  tools. 
The  triangular  hoe  which  strawberry 
growers  use  is  light  and  will  be  found 
efficient  for  all  purposes.  Any  child  large 
enough  to  work  in  a  garden  can  handle 
a  ten-  or  twelve-tooth  rake.  It  will  be 
found  very  convenient  to  mark  the  handles 
of  the  hoes  so  that  the  pupils  can  measure 
by  them.  A  line  is  almost  indispensable, 


HOW  TO  MAKE  A  SCHOOL  GARDEN 


and  should  be  long  enough  to  go  around 

the   entire   garden.     This   can   easily   be 

made  by  cutting  up  a  ball  of  good  twine. 

The    four-strand 

braided  twine  is 

best  for  this  purpose. 

A  twelve-inch  pot  label 

makes     a     very     good 

stake  for  one  end,  and 

has  the  advantage  that 

it  can  be  numbered  ;  any 

strong     stick     can    be 

utilized    for    the    other 

end.     If  small  crops  are 

grown,  the  hand  weeder 

will    be    found   useful, 

although   not  essential. 

Where  the    children 

spade     up     their    own 

gardens,   the   spades 

should  be  smaller  than 

the  ordinary   garden 

spade.      These   can  be 

procured,    however, 

from    most     local 


THE  NEEDED  TOOLS 
«•       .  «  in- 


8     HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

dealers.     The  land  should  be  thoroughly 
fertilized. 

Before  going  with  a  class  of  pupils  into 
the  gardens  to  stake  them  out,  it  is  well 
to  explain  what  is  to  be  done,  and  to 
illustrate  if  possible  on  a  blackboard.  If 
the  children  are  able  to  lay  out  the  gardens 
accurately  without  assistance,  after  it 
has  been  explained  to  them,  they  are 
certainly  above  the  average.  Few  chil- 
dren are  able  to  apply  their  mathematics, 
although  they  may  be  very  bright  in 
book-work.  The  walks  should  be  so 
arranged  that  the  gardens  are  easily 
reached  from  the  entrance,  where,  if 
there  is  sufficient  land  and  there  are 
several  rows,  five  feet  is  not  too  much 
for  the  walks  between  the  rows  of  gardens, 
and  there  should  be  a  walk  of  from  eight- 
een inches  to  three  feet  between  each 
garden.  This,  however,  is  not  always 
feasible  and  can  be  dispensed  with,  but 
it  is  desirable.  If  the  gardens  are  next  to 
a  fence,  especially  a  board  fence,  the  tall 
plants  should  be  located  there,  regardless 


HOW  TO  MAKE  A  SCHOOL  GARDEN    9 

of  the  exposure,  as  the  fence  would  shade 
on  the  one  side  and  the  tall  plants  on  the 
other,  if  planted  in  any  other  place. 


A  CORNER  IN  THE  TOOL  ROOM 

With  individual  gardens,  it  is  well  to  give 
the  children  seeds  put  up  in  packages, 
with  just  enough  for  the  row  in  each 
package.  Otherwise  there  may  be  a 
waste.  Measuring  tape,  stakes  and  a 
mallet  or  hatchet,  and  sometimes  a 
line,  are  required  for  marking  out  the 
garden.  Very  good  stakes  can  be  made 
by  cutting  up  furring  strips,  which  can 


10    HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

be  obtained  from  any  lumber  dealer. 
These  are  inexpensive  and  are  strong. 
They  should  be  driven  into  the  ground  at 
least  one  foot.  With  the  garden  marked 
out,  it  is  time  for  the  lessons  in  planting 
to  begin. 


How  to  Prepare  and  Fertilize 
the  Land 


CHAPTER  II 

How  TO    PREPARE   AND   FERTILIZE   THE 
LAND 

PERHAPS  the  most  serious  problem, 
especially  to  the  city  school,  after  the 
necessary  land  has  been  obtained,  is, 
How  shall  we  prepare  and  properly  fer- 
tilize it?  This  is  a  difficult  question  to 
answer,  as  the  soil  is  hardly  alike  in  any 
two  places.  While  fertilizers  are  usually 
necessary  on  every  soil  to  some  ex- 
tent, tilth  is  of  far  greater  importance. 
Tilling  the  soil  is  to  the  plant  what  train- 
ing and  schooling  is  to  the  child.  The 
child  and  the  plant  must  have  proper 
food,  to  be  sure;  but  that  only  does  not 
develop  much  of  a  desirable  being. 

If  the  plot  of  ground  is  large  enough, 
it  should  be  thoroughly  plowed;  and, 
where  the  subsoil  is  very  compact,  the 


14        HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

plow  should  be  followed  in  the  same 
furrow  with  the  subsoil  plow.  This 
breaks  it  up,  makes  it  more  porous, 
and  allows  the  water  to  pass  through. 
Small  lots,  too  small  to  be  economically 
plowed,  should  be  spaded ;  and,  where  the 
subsoil  is  impervious,  it  can  be  trenched. 
If  the  ground  is  in  turf  it  should  be  well 
turned  and  then  thoroughly  harrowed. 
If  the  land  was  not  in  turf,  or  if  the  turf 
is  decayed  after  plowing,  it  should  be 
replowed,  running  the  furrows  in  the 
opposite  direction.  If  spaded,  the  sod 
should  be  turned  deep.  It  can  again  be 
lightly  spaded.  The  aim  should  be  to 
give  thorough  tillage  to  obtain  all  possi- 
ble from  the  land,  and  then  apply  ferti- 
lizers to  get  more.  Tillage  sets  at  work 
the  forces  which  unlock  plant  food.  Fer- 
tilizers are  more  useful  to  the  plant  on 
well-tilled  land. 

FARM     MANURES 

The  valuable  plant  food  in  farm  manures 
is  not  so  quickly  available  as  in  high-grade 
commercial  fertilizers;  but  they  have  the 


OFTHE 

UNIVERSITY 

OF 


HOW  TO  PREPARE  AND  FERTILIZE  LAND  15 

additional  value  of  supplying  humus, 
which  lightens  the  soil,  increasing  its 
power  to  hold  water.  It  also  assists  in 
liberating  the  mineral  substances  in  the 
soil.  If  the  manure  is  coarse,  it  should 
be  rotted  to  increase  its  availability 
before  applying.  There  are  three  elements 
necessary  to  supply  to  the  soil:  nitrogen, 
potash  and  phosphoric  acid.  Farm  ma- 
nures supply  all  of  these,  but  not  always 
in  the  proportion  needed. 

Commercial  fertilizers  can  be  bought 
and  applied  separately  or  in  combination. 
It  must  always  be  remembered  that  they 
are  very  powerful  and  should  never  be 
placed  in  contact  with  roots  or  seeds,  but 
should  be  mixed  with  the  soil. 

Nitrates  stimulate  the  vegetable  system 
and  tend  to  produce  dark-green  foliage. 
The  application  of  too  much  nitrogen  has 
a  tendency  to  make  the  plant  urun  to 
leaves"  at  the  expense  of  flowers  and 
fruit.  A  lack  of  nitrogen  is  shown  by 
weak  growth  of  a  yellowish-green  colour. 
Nitrate  of  soda  and  sulf  ate  of  ammonia  are 


l6        HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

the  forms  in  which  nitrogen  is  most  often 
used.  It  should  be  applied  in  the  pro- 
portion of  1 50  to  300  pounds  per  acre. 

Potash,  among  other  effects,  stimulates 
the  production  of  plump  seed  and  fruit 
and  intensifies  the  color  of  the  bloom. 
A  deficiency  of  potash  is  shown  by  a  lack 
of  fruit  and  small,  often  immature,  seeds. 
It  is  best  supplied  as  sulfate  and  muriate 
of  potash  and  unleached  wood-ashes. 
The  latter  often  has  a  chemical  effect  on 
heavy  land  to  some  degree  the  same  as 
lime.  Sulfate  and  muriate  of  potash 
are  applied  200  to  400  pounds  to  the 
acre;  wood-ashes,  500  to  1,500  pounds 
to  the  acre. 

Phosphoric  acid  aids  in  developing 
plump  seeds.  It  is  applied  in  bone  com- 
pounds and  fossil  phosphates,  as  South 
Carolina  and  Florida  rock.  The  applica- 
tion is  from  200  to  400  pounds*  of  treated 
rock  per  acre.  Many  fertilizer  dealers 
make  what  they  call  complete  fertilizers 
by  mixing  the  three  required  elements. 

*  Made  available  with  sulfuric  acid. 


HOW  TO  PREPARE  AND  FERTILIZE  LAND  17 

If  the  place  be  small,  one  of  these  com- 
plete fertilizers  would  be  more  convenient 
than  for  one  to  try  to  mix  them. 

When  to  apply  depends  on  the  need 
of  the  plant.  Plants  are  most  benefited 
when  they  receive  extra  nourishment 
in  the  early  stages  of  their  growth. 
For  this  reason  it  is  often  well  to  give 
the  land  an  application  of  farm  ma- 
nure and  to  apply  some  complete 
commercial  fertilizer  in  the  row.  The 
fertilizer  should,  as  a  rule,  be  applied  just 
before  the  crops  are  to  be  planted.  It 
should  be  well  harrowed  into  the  soil. 
The  commercial  fertilizer  acts  as  a  starter, 
being  quickly  available,  while  the  farm 
manure  carries  the  crop  through  the 
season,  the  plant  food  in  it  being  more 
slowly  available. 

Kind  of  fertilizers  to  be  used  depends 
mainly  on  two  things,  viz.,  the  condition 
of  the  soil  and  the  crop  to  be  grown. 
Generally  speaking,  sandy  soils  respond 
most  freely  to  the  application  of  fertilizers. 
When  possible  to  obtain  it,  it  is  best  to 


1 8    HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

use  a  farm  manure,  on  account  of  the 
physical  help  to  the  soil  in  aiding  it  to 
retain  moisture.  An  application  of  ten 
cords  to  the  acre  will  cover  the  land 
one-fourth  of  an  inch.  This  is  a  fair 
application,  although  market  gardeners 
often  use  more  than  double  that  amount. 
A  little  additional  commercial  fertilizer 
in  the  row  will  be  helpful  on  the  start. 
Sandy  soils  are  most  likely  to  be  deficient 
in  nitrates,  as  the  latter  are  soluble  and 
are  washed  through  such  soils.  On  heavy 
soils  also  farm  manures  tend  to  lighten 
them.  The  use  of  lime  on  such  soils 
(those  which  crack  upon  drying)  increases 
the  growth  and  healthfulness  of  plants  by 
improving  the  physical  condition  of  the 
soil  and  sets  free  unavailable  plant  food. 
Wood-ashes  also  aid  in  this,  besides 
supplying  the  potash.  The  lime  should 
be  used  fine,  from  five  to  ten  barrels  per 
acre.  For  light,  spongy  soils,  high-grade 
commercial  fertilizers  are  as  good  as  any. 
If  the  crop  to  be  grown  is  an  early  matur- 
ing one,  commercial  fertilizers  are  best, 


HOW  TO  PREPARE  AND  FERTILIZE  LAND    19 

as  farm  manures  are  not  early  available. 
For  medium  and  late  maturing  crops 
farm  manures  are  much  the  best.  The 
whole  problem  of  manuring  is  a  local  one, 
and  is  best  determined  by  experiment. 

Water  is  necessary  for  the  assimilation 
of  food.  If  the  plants  have  plenty  of 
food  and  no  water,  it  is  of  no  value  to 
them.  Tillage  aids  in  keeping  the  water 
supply  constant  by  preventing  the  evapo- 
ration of  moisture  by  the  sun  when  the 
weather  is  dry  and  by  allowing  the  top- 
soil  to  dry  out  and  get  air  when  wet. 

Plants  to  succeed  must  have  food  and 
care;  the  most  important  is  care,  and 
care  is  largely  tillage. 


Lessons  in   Garden  Work 


CHAPTER  III 
LESSONS  IN  GARDEN  WORK 

THE  lessons  in  this  chapter  are  given 
for  gardens  twenty-five  feet  long  and 
ten  feet  wide,  with  rows  running  east 
and  west,  with  the  exception  of  Lesson  I, 
which  garden  runs  east  and  west  with 
the  rows  north  and  south.  They  can, 
however,  be  adapted  to  any  size  and 
shape.  Before  beginning  with  the  chil- 
dren, the  use  of  the  note-books,  tools,  etc., 
should  be  explained  to  them.  Note-books 
can  be  made,  if  a  quantity  is  required,  as 
cheaply  as  they  can  be  bought.  A  note- 
book 8*/£  by  4%  inches  makes  a  very 
convenient  size  for  the  pocket.  The  num- 
ber can  be  on  the  outside.  The  first  page 
can  be  ruled  for  the  month,  day,  attend- 
ance and  weather  report,  and  the  last 
pages  ruled  for  the  month  and  day  and  for 
23 


24        HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

the  report  of  all  the  different  crops.  The 
second  page  should  be  reserved  for  a 
diagram  of  the  garden.  These  lessons 
can  be  adapted  to  any  method. 


RECEIVING  DIRECTIONS 


71  GARDENS  10  x  170  FEET 
National  Cash  Register  Company,  Dayton,  Ohio 


LESSON  I 

Plant  one  row  of  potatoes  five  feet  from 
the  west  end.  Dig  a  furrow  three  inches 
deep  and  plant  the  pieces*  about  one 
foot  apart,  beginning  at  the  line.  Cover 
at  least  two  inches  with  mellow  soil  and 
pat  down  with  the  back  of  hoe. 

Plant,  two  feet  east  of  potatoes,  one 
row  of  cabbage  seed  in  hills  two  feet  apart. 
Sow  five  or  six  seeds  in  each  hill.  Make 
the  hill  by  loosening  the  soil  with  the  hoe 
and  removing  about  one  inch  of  soil. 
Cover  the  seed  one-half  inch  with  fine 
soil  and  make  it  firm  over  the  seed. 

Plant,  five  feet  from  east  end,  one  row 
of  lettuce.  Mark  out  the  row  about  one- 
half  inch  deep  and  sow  the  seed  one  to  two 
inches  apart.  Cover  with  fine  soil  one- 
fourth  inch  and  press  it  down. 

Plant,  one  foot  east  of  lettuce,  one  row 
of  radishes.  Mark  out  the  same  as  for 

*  The  potato  tubers  are  cut  into  pieces  of  one  or 
two  eyes  each. 

25 


26        HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

lettuce.  Cover  one-fourth  inch  with  fine 

soil  and  press  down.     Use  your  line  in 

marking  each   row.     Measure   with   hoe 
handle. 


toff 


Nortti 


V         V        V        v 


"     "     " 


Stir  in 


BeanS 


Mel 


ons 


LetfuCe  SeecL 


ockS 


fecKS 


S 


.eoeed 


Nq^iTurfiUfn 


Girts*  Gardens 
School  of  Ho_r^^Jtiite,H«rffcrclf  Conn 


LESSON  II 

Rake  the  south  end  of  garden  six  feet, 
breaking  up  the  lumps,  leaving  the  sur- 
face level  with  the  contour  of  the  land. 

Plant,  three  feet  from  south  end,  one 
row  of  lettuce.  Measure  each  side  care- 
fully, run  the  line  across  and  make  a  mark 
or  furrow  about  one-half  inch  deep  and 
sow  the  seed  one  to  two  inches  apart. 
Cover  with  fine  soil  one-fourth  inch  and 
press  down  with  the  back  of  the  hoe. 

Plant,  one  foot  north  of  lettuce  (four 
feet  from  south  end),  one  row  of  beets. 
Make  a  furrow  or  mark  one  inch  deep  and 
sow  the  seed  one  to  two  inches  apart. 
Cover  with  fine  soil  three-fourths  of  an 
inch  and  make  it  firm  over  the  seed. 

Plant,  one  foot  north  of  beets  (five  feet 
from  south  end),  one  row  of  radishes. 
Mark  as  for  lettuce,  sow  the  seed  one 
inch  apart  and  cover  with  fine  soil  one- 
fourth  to  one-half  inch  and  press  down* 
28 


LESSON  III 

Set  out,  ten  feet  from  south  end,  one 
row  of  lettuce  plants  one  foot  apart.  Set 
them  in  the  ground  the  same  depth  that 
they  are  growing.  Be  careful  and  not 
disturb  the  roots.  If  the  soil  is  hard, 
loosen  it  with  the  hoe  and  set  the  plants 
with  the  hands.  Make  a  hole  for  the 
plant  with  the  right  hand,  lower  the  plant 
into  it  with  the  left  and  press  the  earth 
firmly  about  the  roots  with  both  hands. 
Level  the  land  with  the  rake  before  setting 
the  lettuce  plants. 

Level  and  rake  south  and  west  walks. 

Dig  a  hole  in  the  north  end  or  centre  of 
the  garden,  raking  the  lumps  into  it  and 
level  off. 

Be  careful  about  measuring. 


29 


LESSON  IV 

Dig  a  hole  in  the  centre  of  north  end  of 
garden  and  rake  into  it  all  coarse  ma- 
terial that  will  not  break  up,  leaving  the 
garden  and  walks  smooth  and  looking 
well. 

Plant,  five  feet  from  north  end,  one 
row  of  dwarf  horticultural  shell  beans. 
Measure  carefully,  put  the  line  across 
and  make  a  furrow  one  and  one-half 
inches  deep.  Put  the  beans  two  to  three 
inches  apart.  Plant  out  to  edges  of  the 
garden,  cover  with  fine  soil  one  to  one 
and  one-half  inches  and  press  down. 

Plant,  seven  feet  from  north  end,  one 
row  of  Valentine  Beans,  same  as  the 
others. 

Loosen  the  soil  with  the  hoe  or  weeder 
between  the  rows  already  planted,  if  the 
seed  is  up. 


LESSON  V 

Plant  one  row  of  sweet  corn  in  north  end 
of  garden  on  the  line.  Make  a  furrow 
three  inches  deep,  sprinkle  one-fourth 
pint  of  commercial  fertilizer  along  the  row 
and  hoe  it  into  the  soil.  Drop  three 
kernels  every  six  inches,  beginning  at 
the  line.  Cover  with  fine  soil  two  inches 
and  press  down. 

Plant,  two  and  one-half  feet  from  the 
north  end,  one  row  of  corn  the  same  as  the 
other. 

Plant,  nine  feet  from  the  north  end,  one 
row  of  radish  seed,  same  as  in  Lesson  I. 

Set  out,  eight  feet  from  the  south  end, 
one  row  of  tomato  plants.  Set  one  Golden 
Dwarf  Champion  two  feet  from  the  west 
side ;  three  feet  east  of  this  set  one  Ford- 
shooks's  First ;  and  three  feet  east  of  that 
set  one  Dwarf  Champion.  Set  the  plants 
one  to  two  inches  deeper  than  they  are 
growing  in  the  pot  and  press  the  loose  soil 


32         HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

firmly  about  the  ball  of  earth.      Dig  the 
hole  for  the  plant  with  the  hoe. 

Leave  the  walks  and  gardens  smooth, 
free  from  weeds  and  looking  well. 


LESSON  VI 

Set  out  one  row  of  pansy  plants  in  the 
south  end  of  the  garden  on  the  line.  Put 
them  two  feet  apart,  beginning  at  the 
stake,  and  set  them  the  same  as  lettuce 
in  Lesson  II.  Between  each  pair  of  pansy 
plants  set  one  verbena  plant  the  same  way. 

Hoe  over  all  walks,  between  all  rows 
and  where  nothing  is  planted.  Pull  all 
weeds  in  the  rows.  Leave  the  garden  and 
walks  smooth,  free  from  weeds  and  look- 
ing well. 


33 


LESSON  VII 

Plant  twelve  feet  from  the  north  end, 
and  two  and  one-half  feet  from  the  west 
side  of  the  garden,  one  hill  of  watermelon 
seeds. 

Plant  one  hill  of  muskmelon  seeds  two 
and  one-half  feet  from  east  side  and 
twelve  feet  from  north  end.  To  make  a 
hill,  dig  a  hole  one  foot  in  diameter  and 
four  to  six  inches  deep;  fill  this  hole  to 
within  one  inch  of  the  top  with  a  mixture* 
of  equal  parts  of  well-rotted  manure, 
sand  and  soil  to  furnish  a  light  soil  so 
the  plants  can  get  a  quick  start.  Scatter 
the  seeds  all  over  the  hill,  cover  with  fine 
soil  one  inch  and  press  it  down. 

Plant,  six  feet  from  the  south  end,  one 
row  of  radishes,  same  as  lettuce  in  Lesson  I. 

Hoe  between  all  rows  and  hoe  up  the 
weeds  in  the  south  and  west  walks.  Pull 

*  In  sandy  soil  only  the  manure  is  necessary. 
34 


LESSONS  IN  GARDEN  WORK  35 

every  weed  in  the  rows  and  leave  the 
gardens  looking  well. 

Thin  the  lettuce  to  two  inches  apart, 
transplanting  enough  to  fill  out  the  row. 

Pick  flowers  and  pull  radishes  and 
lettuce  if  ready. 


LESSON  VIII 

Hoe  between  all  rows  and  hoe  over  the 
south  and  west  walks. 

Plant,  one  foot  from  the  south  end, 
one  row  of  Dianthus  pinks.  Put  two  or 
three  seeds  every  eight  inches,  beginning 
at  the  line.  Have  the  ground  soft  by 
hoeing  deep. 

Two  feet  from  south  end  plant  one  row 
of  asters  eight  inches  apart,  the  same  as 
the  pinks. 

Pull  all  weeds  in  the  rows  and  leave  a 
soil  mulch  over  the  whole  garden.  Use 
the  weeder  near  the  plants. 

Pick  and  kill  all  potato  beetles. 

Pick  all  flowers  and  pull  the  radishes 
and  lettuce  that  are  ready. 


LESSON  IX 

Hoe  between  all  rows  and  hoe  up  the 
weeds  in  the  south  and  west  walks.  Pull  all 
weeds  in  the  rows  and  leave  a  soil  mulch* 
over  the  whole  garden,  using  the  weeder 
near  the  small  plants. 

Set  out,  eleven  feet  from  the  south 
end,  one  row  of  lettuce  plants  eight  inches 
apart.  Set  them  the  same  as  in  Lesson  II. 
Take  the  plants  from  the  seed-lettuce  row, 
taking  out  every  alternate  one,  beginning 
with  the  second.  Take  them  up  carefully 
with  the  corner  of  the  hoe,  with  soil  on 
the  roots  of  each. 

On  the  north  side  of  each  tomato  plant, 
drive  down  a  stake  about  four  inches 
from  the  plant  and  tie  the  plants  to  them 
carefully. 

*  A  soil  mulch  is  a  loose  condition  of  the  top  soil 
for  an  inch  or  two.  It  acts  as  a  blanket,  preventing 
rapid  evaporation.  It  also  tends  to  check  the 
germination  of  "weeds.  It  is  essential  to  good, 
healthy,  rapid  growth. 

37 


38        HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

Plant,  five  feet  from  south  end,  one 
row  of  radishes  same  as  lettuce  in  Lesson  I. 

Sift  ashes*  and  Paris  green  over  the 
melons. 

Pick  flowers,  and  pull  radishes  and  let- 
tuce, if  ready. 

*  This  is  prepared  by  mixing  thoroughly  one 
teaspoonful  of  Paris  green  with  two  quarts  of  wood- 
ashes.  Just  a  very  little  is  sifted  over  the  plant. 


LESSON  X 

Hoe  between  all  rows  and  over  the 
south  and  west  walks.  Pull  every  weed 
in  the  rows  and  leave  a  soil  mulch  over 
the  whole  garden. 

Thin  out  the  corn,  leaving  one  stalk 
every  six  inches. 

Thin  the  beets  to  two  inches  apart  and 
take  home  for  greens'  those  pulled  out. 

Sift  ashes  and  Paris  green  over  the 
melons. 

Pick  flowers,  and  pull  radishes  and 
lettuce,  if  ready. 


39 


LESSON  XI 

Hoe  between  all  rows  and  over  the 
south  and  west  walks.  Pull  every  weed 
in  the  rows  and  leave  a  soil  mulch  over 
the  whole  garden. 

Sift  ashes  and  Paris  green  over  the 
melons. 

Plant,  ten  feet  from  south  end,  one  row 
of  Big  Boston  Lettuce,  same  as  lettuce  in 
Lesson  I. 

Plant,  nine  feet  from  north  end,  one 
row  Hartford  Bronzed  Lettuce,  same  as 
in  Lesson  I. 

Pick  flowers,  and  pull  radishes  and 
lettuce,  if  ready. 


40 


LESSON  XII 

Hoe  between  all  rows  and  over  the 
south  and  west  walks.  Pull  every  weed 
in  the  rows  and  leave  a  soil  mulch  over 
the  whole  garden. 

Make  a  diagram  of  garden  on  page  two. 

Pick  flowers,  and  pull  radishes,  beets 
and  lettuce,  if  ready. 

GRAINS 

Grain  is  the  term  applied  to  the  fruit  of 
cereal  plants  or  to  the  plants  themselves. 
The  fruit  is  a  small,  hard  seed  and  is  borne 
in  spikes  or  ears.  The  grains  are  wheat, 
oats,  rye,  barley,  buckwheat,  flax  and  corn 
(maize).  To  preserve  grains  for  school- 
room use  it  is  best  to  pull  them  up  when 
they  are  matured,  but  just  as  they  are 
ready  to  turn  yellow.  Two  or  three 
stools  should  be  bunched  together,  tied  in 
several  places  to  prevent  breaking,  and 
thoroughly  dried.  In  this  condition,  if 


42         HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

kept  from  mice,  they  will  keep  several 
years. 

Wheat  is  a  grass  closely  related  to 
barley  and  rye.  It  has  a  dense  four- 
sided  spike,  and  grains  longitudinally 
furrowed  on  one  side,  turgid  on  the  other. 
Some  varieties  have  awns  or  beards; 
one  being  planted  in  autumn,  the  other 
in  spring.  From  it  comes  the  principal 
breadstuff  of  the  civilized  world.  A  grain 
in  weight  was  originally  derived  from  a 
plump  grain  of  wheat. 

Wheat  was  introduced  into  China  2,700 
B.  C. 

Oats  differ  from  other  grains  in  mode 
of  flowering,  having  panicles  instead  of 
spikes.  Used  in  human  food  and  much 
used  for  horses.  Often  cut  "in  the  milk" 
for  a  fodder  crop. 


LESSON  XIII 

Hoe  between  all  rows  and  over  the 
south  and  west  walks.  Pull  all  weeds 
and  leave  a  soil  mulch  over  entire  garden. 
Thin  out  melons,  leaving  only  three  good 
plants  to  a  hill. 

Re-tie  tomato  plants  where  necessary. 

Pick  flowers  and  string  beans,  and  pull 
beets,  lettuce  and  radishes,  if  ready. 

GRAINS 

Rye  differs  from  wheat  in  that  the 
ear  bends  down  while  in  wheat  it  is  erect. 
It  is  taller  than  wheat,  has  both  winter 
and  spring  varieties,  and  comes  next  in 
nutritive  value.  Rye  makes  a  black 
bread  and  is  the  chief  breadstuff  of 
sections  of  Europe.  A  coffee  is  made 
from  its  roasted  grains.  The  straw  is 
valuable  for  mats,  etc. 

Barley  resembles  both  wheat  and 
rye,  but  has  longer  awns,  and  it  retains 
closely  its  husks.  It  has  a  wider  leaf  and 
43 


44   HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

a  more  yellowish-green  color  while  grow- 
ing. It  can  be  grown  over  the  widest 
latitude  of  any  grain.  The  awns  are 
barbed  and  poison  persons  of  a  delicate 
skin.  It  has  two-,  four-  and  six-rowed 
varieties. 

Buckwheat  is  a  dicotyledonous  plant; 
flowers  white,  fruit  a  triangular  seed  used 
much  for  poultry  and  for  buckwheat  flour. 

Flax  is  grown  for  both  fiber  and  seed. 
The  fiber  comes  from  the  stalks  and  is 
made  into  linens.  The  seed  is  used  for 
poultices  (flaxseed  poultices),  and  is 
pressed  to  obtain  linseed  oil — the  oil  of 
paint. 

Indian  Corn  is  taller  than  the  other 
grains.  Flowers  monoecious  naked  ovules 
enclosed  in  a  husk.  Of  great  value  as  a 
food  for  cattle.  Much  used  as  human 
food,  as  cornstarch  and  hominy.  There 
are  many  varieties.  It  likes  hot  weather 
to  grow. 


HIS  OWN  RAISING 


LESSON  XIV 

Hoe  between  all  rows  and  over  south 
and  west  walks.  Pull  all  weeds. 

Plant,  five  feet  from  south  end,  one  row 
of  beets,  same  as  in  Lesson  I. 

Thin  all  small  lettuce  to  four  inches 
apart,  transplanting  where  necessary  to 
fill  out  the  row. 

Pick  flowers  and  string  beans,  and  pull 
beets,  lettuce  and  radishes,  if  ready. 
WEEDS* 

Purslane  (pers'-lan),t  Portulaca  oleracea 
(por-tu-la'ka  ol-e-ra'cecC).  This  is  an 
herbaceous  plant,  a  very  troublesome 
weed  all  over  the  United  States  and  parts 
of  Europe.  The  very  fine  black  seed  do 
not  germinate  until  the  weather  is  hot. 

*  It  is  intended  that  the  teacher  should  have  a 
good  specimen  of  the  weed  in  the  class-room  while 
explaining  it.  If  possible,  also  have  a  sample  of 
the  seed  in  a  vial.  Be  sure  to  have  all  parts — roots, 
stem,  leaf,  flower. 

f  Latin  names  should  always  be  given  so  the 
pupil  will  know  them  when  he  hears  them.  It  is 
not  necessary  for  the  child  to  learn  them. 

45 


46        HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

It  then  grows  rapidly.  As  the  stems  and 
leaves  are  so  fleshy,  the  plant  will  often 
mature  its  seed  even  after  pulled  up.  It 
easily  roots  at  the  joints.  The  small 
yellow  flowers  open  only  in  sunlight  and 
remain  open  but  a  few  hours.  The  seed 
has  very  great  vitality,  being  able  to 
remain  in  soil  many  years  and  then  grow 
when  an  opportunity  comes.  The  plant 
is  used  in  salads,  for  greens  (as  a  pot  herb), 
in  pickles  and  for  garnishing.  It  is  very 
good.  It  is  often  called  pussley.  Difficult 
to  kill,  it  should  be  uprooted  and  removed. 
Best  time  to  kill  it  is  when  it  is  a  day  or 
two  old,  by  hoeing  it  up. 


LESSON  XV 

Hoe  between  all  rows  and  over  the 
south  and  west  walks.  Pull  all  weeds. 

Plant,  two  and  one-half  feet  from  south 
end,  one  row  of  radishes,  same  as  in 
Lesson  I. 

Cut  out  all  corn-suckers,  leaving  only 
one  stalk  every  six  or  eight  inches. 

Pick  all  flowers,  string  beans  and 
tomatoes,  and  pull  beets,  radishes  and 
lettuce,  if  ready. 

Make  out  a  list  of  what  you  have  taken 
home. 

Complete    diagrams. 

Be  sure  lettuce  is  thinned. 
PURSLANE* 

Smartweed  f:  Persicary,  peach-wort, 
heartsease,  smart  grass,  spotted  knot- 
weed,  knot-grass,  lady's-thumb.  Polygo- 
num  Persicaria  (po-ligf-o-num  per-si-ka'- 

*  Review  weeds  each  lesson  in  class-room  and 
point  out  same  in  gardens  until  pupils  become 
familiar  with  them. 

t  Always  have  the  weed  present. 

47 


10  ff 


* 


Och 


oo 


Nortti 


Coi*fi 


Corn 


eans 


Melons 


Tomaioes 


KodiSh 


South 
L.  Boys 'Gardens, 


LESSONS  IN  GARDEN  WORK  49 

ri-d) .  This  weed  grows  from  one  to  three 
feet  high ;  has  peach-like  leaves  with  dark 
spots  on  them.  The  seed  is  very  shiny 
and  black.  It  is  a  very  troublesome  weed 
in  the  United  States  and  parts  of  Europe. 
Grows  most  abundantly  in  damp  seasons 
or  in  moist  places.  There  are  many 
kinds  of  knot-grass.  This  one  is  closely 
related  to  the  Prince 's-feather.  Joints 
of  stems  always  swollen.  Flowers  white 
or  pink.  The  weed  is  used  in  medicine. 

Killed  only  by  pulling  up,  as  it  will 
sucker  if  broken  off.  Best  time  to  kill 
it  in  the  garden  is  when  it  is  very  young. 


LESSON  XVI 

Hoe  between  all  rows  and  over  the 
south  and  west  walks.  Pull  all  weeds. 

Plant,  three  and  one-half  feet  from 
south  end,  one  row  of  radish  seed. 

Pick  flowers,  string  beans  and  tomatoes, 
and  pull  all  beets,  radishes  and  lettuce 
that  are  ready. 

Ragweed*  :  Roman  wormwood,  hog- 
weed,  bitterweed:  Ambrosia  Artemisiae- 
folia  (A m-bro'zi'd  A r-te-miz'i-fo-leff-a) .  This 
ragweed  is  a  very  troublesome  weed. 
It  grows  along  roadsides  and  in  waste 
places  everywhere.  Its  height  is  one 
to  four  feet.  Much  branched;  leaves 
vary,  generally  much  divided  or  com- 
pound. The  juice  is  bitter.  The  flowers 
are  greenish,  with  stamens  and  pistils  in 
different  flowers  on  the  same  plant. 

The  pollen  from  this  weed  is  said  to 
cause  hay  fever,  so  some  persons  have  to 

*  Always  have  the  weed  present. 
50 


LESSONS  IN  GARDEN  WORK  5 1 

go  to  the  mountains  or  places  where  it 
does  not  grow  during  its  blossoming 
period.  It  produces  a  very  peculiar  irri- 
tating odor.  Killed  by  pulling  up  or 
breaking  off.  Best  time  to  kill  it  is  when 
very  young. 


LESSON  XVII 

Pull  all  weeds.  Pick  string  and  shell 
beans,  if  ready,  and  pull  up  the  vines. 
Pull  all  the  beets. 

Set  out  one  row  of  Hartford  Bronzed 
Head  Lettuce  plants  seven  feet  from  north 
end,  and  one  row  Big  Boston  Lettuce 
plants  four  feet  from  south  end,  setting 
the  plants  one  foot  apart.  Take  lettuce 
plants  from  rows  in  the  garden,  taking 
alternate  plants. 

Plant,  five  feet  from  north  end,  one 
row  of  radish  seed. 

Pick  flowers  and  tomatoes,  and  pull 
radishes  and  lettuce,  if  ready. 

Pigweed*:  Lamb's  quarters,  bacon  weed. 
Cheno podium  Album  (ke-no-po'dium  alf- 
bum).  This  is  one  of  the  commonest  of 
weeds,  growing  two  to  seven  feet  high. 
Stems  nearly  white  or  mealy,  also  the  under 
surface  of  the  leaves  sometimes  varies  some 

*  Always  have  the  weed  present. 
52 


LESSONS  IN  GARDEN  WORK  53 

according  to  place  where  it  grows.  Some- 
times used  as  a  pot  herb  (for  greens). 
Pigs  are  fond  of  it.  Easily  killed  by 
pulling  up.  Best  time  to  kill  it  is  when 
very  young. 


LESSON  XVIII 

Hoe  between  all  rows  and  over  the 
south  and  west  walks.  Pull  all  weeds. 

Pick  flowers  and  tomatoes,  if  ready. 

Rough  Pigweed*'.  Green  Amaranth, 
pigweed.  Amarantus  retro  flexus  (Am-a- 
ran'tus  re'tro-fleks-us).  This  is  a  very 
common  weed  in  cultivated  land.  Notice 
the  hairy  stems.  It  grows  from  one  to  five 
feet  high  and  has  a  large  thick  panicle  of 
small  green  flowers.  It  belongs  to  same 
family  as  the  cockscomb  and  the  thick 
Prince 's-feather.  It  is  a  troublesome  weed. 
Best  time  to  kill  it  is  by  cultivation  when 
very  young. 

*  Always  have  the  weed  present. 


54 


LESSON  XIX 

Pull  all  weeds  and  leave  a  soil  mulch 
over  the  whole  garden. 

Thin  beets  to  three  inches  apart,  trans- 
planting where  necessary  to  fill  out  the 
row. 

Turn  melon  vines  into  garden  and  pinch 
off  the  ends. 

Plant  one  row  of  radish  seed  six  feet 
from  the  north  end. 

Clean  south  and  west  walks  and  pick 
flowers,  lettuce  and  tomatoes  that  are 
ready. 

Wild  Carrot*:  Queen's  lace  handker- 
chief. Daucus  Car ota  (dau'-kus  ka-ro'ta). 
This  beautiful  flowering  weed  is  so  trouble- 
some that  in  some  places  there  is  a  law 
requiring  it  to  be  cut  to  prevent  its  going 
to  seed.  From  this  plant  our  common 
carrot  has  developed  by  cultivation.  It 

*  Always  have  the  weed  present,  roots,  stem  and 
flower. 

55 


56        HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

has  some  medical  properties.  The  only 
way  to  kill  it  is  to  pull  it  up.  Best  done 
after  a  rain,  when  the  ground  is  moist. 
Never  allow  it  to  seed. 


LESSON  XX 

Pull  all  weeds  and  leave  a  soil  mulch 
over  the  entire  garden. 

Run  the  line  across  one  foot  south  of 
the  garden  and  trim  off  the  verbenas 
with  the  turf  cutter. 

Have  tomatoes  tied  and  south  and  west 
walks  free  from  weeds. 

Pick  flowers,  tomatoes  and  lettuce,  if 
ready. 

Be  sure  garden  and  diagrams  are  com- 
plete. 

Plantin*:  Common  plant  in,  hen  plant, 
broad-leaved  plantin.  Plantago  Major 
(plan-ta'-gb  md'-jor).  This  is  a  very  com- 
mon dooryard  weed  all  over  the  United 
States  and  Europe.  It  does  not  die 
in  winter,  but  the  root  lives  year  after  year. 
The  ribbed  leaves,  when  bound  on  in- 
flamed surfaces,  have  a  soothing  effect. 

*  Always  have  the  weed  present. 

57 


58        HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

The  stem  is  channeled  on  the  tipper  surface. 
The  flowers  form  a  greenish  spike.  Best 
killed  by  pulling  up  or  cutting  off  below 
the  surface  of  the  soil. 


LESSON  XXI 

Pull  all  weeds  and  leave  a  soil  mulch 
over  the  garden.  Have  south  and  west 
walks  free  from  weeds  and  looking  well. 

Pick  flowers,  tomatoes,  radishes  and 
lettuce,  if  ready. 

Pick  a  little  corn,  leaving  the  largest 
ears.  Make  record  of  produce  taken 
home. 

FOR    THE    EXHIBIT 

Pull  a  bunch  of  the  best  six  beets  and 
best  six  radishes.  Wash  thoroughly  and 
tie  neatly. 

Cut  and  wash  very  carefully  the  best 
head  of  Big  Boston  and  Hartford  Bronzed 
Head  Lettuce. 

Pick  the  best  six  tomatoes,  the  best 
watermelon  and  muskmelon  and  best  two 
or  three  ears  of  corn.  Pull  the  husks  down 
on  the  corn  to  show  the  ear. 

Pick  flowers  and  arrange  them  in 
59 


60        HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

tumblers,  which  you  must  bring  from 
home. 

Arrange  these  things  on  the  table  in 
sets — vegetables,  fruit,  flowers. 

Narrow  Leaved  Plantin*:  Hen  plant, 
rib-grass,  ripple-grass,  English  plantin: 
Plantago  Lanceolata  (plan-to! -go  lan-se- 
o-lo!  id) .  This  weed  is  much  like  the  broad- 
leaved  plantin,  with  narrower  leaves,  and 
the  flowers  grow  on  longer  stems.  It  is 
mostly  hairy.  It  is  killed  the  same  as  the 
other  one. 

*  Always  have  the  weed  present. 


T=»RA^VS 

THE 

^ERS/TY 

OF 


Lessons  in  Greenhouse  Work 


CHAPTER  IV 


LESSONS  IN  GREENHOUSE  WORK,  PLANT- 
ING THE  SEED,  POTTING,  SHIFTING 
AND  TAKING  CUTTINGS. 

While  it  is  not  possible,  and  perhaps 
not  feasible,  for  many  schools  to  have 
a  greenhouse  connected  with  them,  it 
is  possible  to  do  all  of  the  things 
given  in  this  chapter  right  in  the 
ordinary  school-room.  The  window- 
box  or  the  window 
garden  is  the 
teacher's  green- 
house. It  may  not 
be  as  convenient, 
but  it  may  be  of 
more  value  to  the 
child.  Children  who 
have  everything  at 
their  command  in 
schools  are  likely  to 

-        ...  ..       ,  THE    TEACHER'S 

be  discouraged  when  GREENHOUSE 


04        HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

they  attempt  to  do  things  at  home,  because 
they  have  not  the  things  which  they  con- 
sider absolutely  necessary.  Several  of 
the  greenhouse  architects  now  have  on 
the  market  a  very  fine  window  garden 
which  can  be  easily  put  on  any  window. 
It  might  be  well  to  take  up  one  or  two 
lessons  with  the  study  of  the  seed  before 
beginning  the  following  lessons.  The 


a.  %-inch  m«sh 


A  SET  OP  SIEVES 
b.  ±-inch  mesh 


c.  Flour  si«ve 


sieves  used  can  be  easily  made  from  one- 
half-inch  mesh  wire  netting.  A  con- 
venient size  is  twelve  by  twenty  inches  and 
four  inches  deep.  For  Lesson  II  the  one- 
quarter-inch  wire  mesh  should  be  used. 

The  flour  sieve,  for  covering  seed,  can 
be  obtained  from  local  dealers. 


LESSON  I 

For  Planting  Seed:  Take  one  part  of 
soil,  two  parts  of  sand.  Mix  well  and  sift. 
Put  the  lumps  in  the  bottom  of  the  shallow 
box,  which  is  called  a  flat.  Fill  it  nearly 
one-half  full  of  lumps  or  broken  pots  for 
drainage.  Then  fill  the  flat  with  the  fine 
soil  and  sow  the  seed  rather  thinly  broad- 
cast, one  seed  to  every  one-half  inch  of 
space.  Cover  about  one-eighth  inch  by 
sifting  soil  on  through  a  flour  sieve.  Press 
down  evenly  and  firmly  with  a  block  or 
board.  Mark  the  kind  of  seed  and  date 
on  a  label  and  place  it  in  one  corner  of  the 
flat.  Take  the  flat  to  the  greenhouse 
walk  and  sprinkle  very  carefully  till  wet, 
then  place  on  the  heating-pipes  under  the 
bench.*  Coarse  seeds  should  be  pressed 
into  the  soil  before  covering. 

*  These,  when  treated  thus,  must  be  watched 
very  carefully,  and  brought  to  light  just  as  soon 
as  the  seed  begins  to  germinate. 


LESSON  II 

For  Planting  Fine  Seed:  Take  one 
part  soil,  two  parts  sand.  Mix  well  and 
sift  with  a  one-quarter-inch  mesh  sieve. 
Put  the  lumps  in  the  bottom  of  the  flat  or 
seed  pan,  filling  it  about  one-half  full  of 
lumps  or  broken  pots  for  drainage.  Then 
fill  it  with  fine  soil,  scraping  off  the  top 
level.  Sow  the  seed  carefully  over  the 
surface  as  evenly  as  possible.  Press  the 
soil  down  firmly  (not  hard)  without 
covering  the  seed.  Place  the  flat  or  seed 
pan  into  a  larger  water-tight  box,  filling 
the  latter  with  water.  Let  the  seed  stand 
in  the  water  until  the  soil  is  wet  through 
from  beneath.  Remove  it  and  place  on 
the  heating-pipes  or  in  a  warm  place. 
When  dry,  water  from  beneath  as  at  first 
until  seeds  are  well  up.  This  method  is 
used  for  all  fine  seeds,  as  tobacco,  petunia, 
Antirrhinums  (snap  dragons)  and  the  like. 


66 


LESSON  III 

To  Pot  Seedlings:  Mix  one  part  soil, 
one  part  sand,  one  part  well-rotted  manure, 
and  sift.  Use  one-and-one-half-  to  two- 
and-one-fourth-inch  pots.  Have  them 
clean  and  dip  in  water*  before  using.  Place 
a  piece  of  broken  pot  in  the  bottom  of  the 
pot  for  drainage.  Fill  the  pot  one-third 
full  of  soil,  then  take  the  plant,  hold  it 
with  the  left  hand  in  the  centre  of  pot  and 
fill  in  soil  evenly  on  all  sides.  Press  the 
soil  down  firmly,  leaving  it  one-fourth  to 
one-half  inch  below  the  top  of  the  pot. 
Place  pots  in  a  flat,  water,  and  put  in 
partial  shade  for  a  day  or  two.  Mark 
the  kind  of  plant  on  a  label  and  place  in  one 
pot  of  each  flat.  To  lift  the  plants,  place 
the  trowel  or  stick  straight  down  beside 
the  edge  of  the  flat  till  below  the  roots, 

*  As  pots  are  porous,  if  they  are  not  wet  they 
will  absorb  water  from  the  soil  that  the  roots  should 
have.  With  new  pots  this  may  mean  the  difference 
between  success  and  failure. 


68         HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

then  press  the  handle  down,  lifting  the 
plants.  Shake  off  the  soil  carefully  and 
pot  or  "prick  out "  a  trifle  lower  than  they 
grew. 


LESSON  IV 

To  Shift  or  Repot:  Mix  two  quarts  of 
sand,  four  quarts  of  soil,  four  quarts  of 
well-rotted  manure,  sift  and  add  one- 
half  pint  of  fine  ground  bone  and  mix 
thoroughly.  The  pots  are  prepared  the 
same  as  for  potting,  by  wetting  and 
placing  drainage  in  them.  The  plant  is 
removed  from  the  pot  by  inverting  it 
and  rapping  the  rim  of  the  pot  lightly 
upon  the  edge  of  the  bench.  Crumble 
a  little  earth  from  the  upper  edge, 
remove  the  drainage,  and  crumble  away 
the  lower  edge  slightly.  Put  in  enough 
soil  over  the  drainage  to  bring  the 
"ball  of  earth"  about  three-fourths  of 
an  inch  below  the  top  of  the  pot.  Place 
the  plant  in  the  centre  of  the  pot  and  fill 
in  soil  around  the  ball  of  earth,  pressing 
firmly  about  the  edges.  Fill  the  pot 
to  one-half  inch  below  the  top,  press 
firmly,  and  rap  lightly  on  the  bench  to 
69 


70        HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

settle  the  soil.  Water,  and  place  in 
partial  shade  for  a  day  or  two.  Never 
fill  in  soil  above  the  first  leaves  of  the 
plant.  Use  pots  about  one  inch  larger 
than  those  from  which  the  plants  are 
removed. 


LESSON  V 

To  Prick  Out  Seedlings:  Mix  the  soil 
the  same  as  for  potting  (Lesson  III) .  Put 
the  lumps  in  the  bottom  of  the  flat 
and  fill  it  the  same  as  for  sowing  seed 
(Lesson  I).  Begin  at  the  left-hand  corner 
farthest  from  you.  With  a  finger  or  a 
dibble  make  a  hole  and  lower  the  plant 
into  it,  pressing  the  soil  firmly  about  the 
roots.  Put  the  plants  two  inches  apart 
each  way  and  the  outside  rows  close  to  the 
edge  of  the  flat.  Keep  the  rows  straight 
and  put  the  same  number  in  each  flat. 
Mark  the  kind  of  plant  on  a  label  and  place 
one  in  each  flat. 


LESSON  VI 

To  Take  Soft  Wood  Cuttings*:  Select 
the  younger  growth  of  the  plants  where 
the  shoots  are  pretty  well  matured  so  that 
they  are  not  too  soft.  They  should  break 
straight  off  when  bent  in  the  shape  of  the 
letter  "U. "  If  they  bend  only,  they  are 
likely  to  be  too  soft.  If  they  split,  they 
are  too  hard.  The  tops  of  the  shoots 
generally  make  the  best  cuttings.  Cut 
them  two  or  three  inches  long.  Then 
trim  off  the  side  leaves  and,  if  the  top 
leaves  are  large,  cut  them  in  two  so  that 
they  will  not  evaporate  too  much  moisture. 
They  should  then  be  inserted  in  clean, 
sharp  sand  at  least  half  their  length  and 
wet  thoroughly.  For  the  school  room  or 
home,  a  deep  plate  or  a  shallow  dish  con- 
taining about  two  inches  of  sand  can  be 
used,  and,  after  the  cuttings  are  in,  it 
should  be  placed  upon  a  radiator.  The 

*  Coleus,  geraniums  and  such  plants. 
72 


LESSONS  IN  GREENHOUSE  WORK 


73 


sand  should  be  kept  moist,  and  the  sun 
should  not  strike  the  cuttings  too  strongly, 
although  they  should  have  a  strong  light. 


a.  Cuttings 


A  FLAT  OF  CUTTINGS 
b.  Sharp  sand        c.  Gravel  for  drainage 


They  will  need  air.  It  is  better  to  have 
the  sand  warmer  than  the  air.  The  cut 
at  the  bottom  of  the  cuttings  should  be 
made  with  a  clean  sharp  knife,  and 
should  be  made  just  below  a  node. 


Root-Grafting 


CHAPTER  V 
ROOT-GRAFTING 

FOR  root-grafting  it  is  only  necessary 
to  have  a  sharp  knife,  apple  or  pear  seed- 
lings and  the  scions.  It  is  fine  handicraft 
work,  and  can  be  done  anywhere,  in  the 
schoolroom  or  at  any  convenient  place. 
The  seedlings  can  be  purchased  of  any 
nurseryman  for  from  six  to  "fif teen  dollars 
per  thousand,  and  the  scions  will  be 
inexpensive.  One  seedling  will  make  from 
one  to  six  root  grafts.  The  grafting- 
cloth  is  perhaps  the  best  thing  to  use  for 
tying  up  the  seedlings.  It  should  be  cut 
in  strips  about  three-eighths  of  an  inch 
wide  for  tying  in  the  grafts.  Any  part  of 
the  root  over  three-sixteenths  of  an  inch 
in  thickness  can  be  utilized  in  root-grafting. 
It  is  better  to  be  six  inches  long,  although 
not  necessary.  It  is  well  to  have  the 
scions  four  to  six  inches  in  length.  The 
77 


78   HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

roots  should  be  thoroughly  washed  before 
beginning  to  graft,  to  remove  all  grit. 
Shoe  knives  of  good  quality  make  excel- 
lent knives  for  this  work  and  are  inex- 
pensive. 


AN  ECONOMICAL  KNIFE  FOR  ROOT-GRAFTING 


LESSON  I 

For  Grafting-Cloth:  Melt  four  parts  of 
unbleached  resin  and  one  part  of  beef  tallow 
over  a  slow  fire.  Spread  this  evenly  over 
cotton  cloth  with  a  brush  or  stick.  Tack 
the  cloth  to  a  board  or  box,  which 
should  be  warm.  When  cool,  roll 
up  and  keep  in  a  cool  moist  place 
until  needed. 

For  Scions:  Cut  the  ends  of  branches 
or  twigs  of  desired  varieties.  Cut  off  only 
wood  of  the  previous  summer's  growth. 
Label  carefully  and  place  (lying  flat)  in 
sand  or  moss  and  store  in  a  cool  moist 
place.  Scions  can  be  cut  any  time,  when 
not  frozen,  after  the  leaves  fall  in  autumn 
until  the  first  of  April. 

For  Grafting-Wax:  Melt  together  four 
parts  of  unbleached  resin,  two  parts  of 
beeswax  and  one  part  of  beef  tallow  over  a 
slow  fire.  When  thoroughly  melted,  cool 
slightly  and  pour  into  cold  water.  Work 
79 


So        HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

with  the  hands  (as  molasses  candy)  until 
it  is  of  a  buff  color,  then  roll  in  sticks  and 
wrap  in  oiled  paper.  It  can  be  kept  in  a 
cool  moist  place  indefinitely. 


A  SCHOOL  GARDEN 
In    the    business   centre    of   Cleveland — Rockwell   School 


THE  FUN  OP  MAKING  A  GARDEN 
"The    children  tackled  the  soil  with  such  weapons  as  they  could  muster' 


UNIVERSITY 

OF 


LESSON  II 

For  Tongue-Grafting:  Take  the  seed- 
ling roots,  which  are  called  stocks,  and 
the  scions  from  the  boxes  of  moss 
or  sand  and  wash  them.  With  a  sharp 
knife  or  pruning-shears  remove  all 
the  root  branches  which  are  three- 
sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  diameter 
or  more.  Each  piece  will  make  a  root 
graft.  Make  a  long,  clean,  slanting  cut 
on  the  upper  end  of  each  root  and  select 
a  scion  of  about  the  same  size  and  make  a 
similar  cut  on  the  lower  end  of  it.  Cut 
scions  about  four  to  six  inches  long.  See 
that  the  slanting  cuts  on  the  scion  and 
stock  are  clean,  smooth  and  match  each 
other.  Cut  a  little  tongue  in  each  by 
cutting  out  a  small  wedge-shaped  chip. 
Press  the  stock  and  scion  together  firmly 
so  that  the  tongues  dovetail  together.  If 
they  do  not  fit  well,  take  them  apart  and 
try  again.  Be  sure  the  inner  barks  of  roots 
81 


82         HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 


and    scions    coincide.     If    the    scion    is 
smaller  than  the  stock,   carry  it  to  one 


—qrafnq  tOdX 
(7f  disk/fend  be cuf) 


TONGUE-GRAFTING 


edge  so  the  inner  barks  come  together. 
Bind  firmly  with  warm  grafting-cloth  cut 
into  strips  about  three-eighths  of  an  inch 
wide  and  three  to  five  inches  long.  Begin 


ROOT-GRAFTING  83 

below  the  union  and  wind  spirally  till 
above  the  cut.  If  the  distal  end  (top  end) 
of  the  scion  is  cut,  cover  it  with  a  little 
grafting-wax.  Tie  in  bundles,  marking 
the  kind  which  is  the  same  as  the  scions. 
Pack  in  damp  moss  or  sand  and  store  in  a 
cool  moist  place  till  spring. 


LESSON  III 


For  Saddle  Grafting:     Make  a  clean  cut 
about  one-half  inch  long  on  each  side  of 


SADDLE  GRAFTING 


84 


ROOT-GRAFTING  85 

the  stock;  then  make  a  corresponding 
V-shaped  cut  in  the  scion  so  that  they 
match.  If  the  two  do  not  match  per- 
fectly, try  until  they  do.  Have  the  scion 
about  four  inches  long  and  place  it  on  the 
stock  so  the  cambium  layers  of  stock  and 
scion  coincide.  Bind  firmly  with  warm 
graft  ing- cloth  about  three-eighths  of  an 
inch  wide,  winding  spirally  from  below 
up  over  the  union.  Store  in  damp  moss 
or  sand  in  a  cool  moist  place  till  spring. 
Cover  distal  end  of  scion  with  grafting- 
wax,  if  cut. 


LESSON  IV 

For  Plain  Whip-Grafting:     Make  long 
slanting  cuts  on  the  proximal  end  of  scion 


(Jax 

endbecuD 


cfoHt 


PLAIN  WHIP-GRAFTING 
86 


ROOT-GRAFTING 


and  on  the  distal  end  of  stock  that  just 
match  each  other.    Place  them  so  the  cam- 


VENEER  GRAFTING 


bium  layers  of  the  stock  and  the  scion 
coincide,  and  bind  firmly  with  grafting- 
cloth. 


88        HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

For  Veneer  Grafting:  Remove  a  shav- 
ing of  bark  through  the  cambium  layer, 
about  one  inch  long,  from  both  the  stock 
and  the  scion.  Make  a  short  transverse 
cut  at  the  base  of  each  vertical  cut.  Have 
the  cambium  layers  of  the  stock  and  the 
scion  coincide.  Bind  firmly  with  grafting- 
cloth,  and  store  in  damp  moss  or  sand  in 
a  cool  moist  place  till  spring. 

A  modified  form  of  veneer  grafting, 
called  approach  grafting,  is  used  on  plants 
in  leaf.  In  this  case  the  stocks  and  scions 
remain  on  their  own  roots  until  union 
takes  place. 


LESSON  V 

For  Planting  Root  Grafts:  Prepare 
the  land  by  plowing  or  spading  thoroughly 
and  harrow  or  rake  it  so  the  surface  is 
nearly  smooth.  If  the  ground  be  rich,  no 
fertilizer  is  needed.  Stretch  a  line  where 
the  first  row  is  desired.  Press  the  spade 
or  dibble  into  the  ground  beneath  the 
line.  Move  it  slightly  to  increase  the  size 
of  the  opening.  Remove  the  tool  and 
insert  the  root  graft,  placing  it  in  the  soil 
well  below  the  union,  to  encourage  adven- 
titious roots  from  the  scion  and  to  prevent 
adventitious  shoots  from  the  stock.  Press 
the  soil  firmly  about  it  with  the  heel  or 
dibble  and  continue,  putting  in  the  root 
grafts  every  six  or  eight  inches,  under  the 
line.  Put  the  rows  four  feet  apart  if  to 
be  cultivated  with  a  horse  and  three  feet 
if  by  hand  only.  Two  persons  can  work 
to  the  best  advantage,  one  using  the  spade 
or  dibble  while  the  other  carries  the 


90        HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

bundle  of  root  grafts  and  inserts  them. 
Hardy  cuttings  are  planted  the  same  way. 
If  the  row  be  long,  the  line  should  be 
pinned  down  in  several  places  to  keep  it 
straight. 


Budding 


CHAPTER  VI 
BUDDING 

FOR  this  work  it  is  best  to  grow  a  few 
peach  trees  from  the  seeds,  which  have 
been  saved  the  previous  year  and  planted 
either  in  the  fall  or  cracked  and  planted 
in  the  spring.  By  September,  the  trees 
will  be  large  enough  and  ready  to  bud. 
A  few  days  before  budding  is  to  take  place 
it  is  well  to  go  about  and  trim  off  the  leaves 
for  five  or  six  inches  from  the  ground. 
This  should  not  be  done  very  long  before- 
hand, as  it  will  harden  up  the  wood  too 
rapidly.  Budding  should  take  place  when 
the  bark  slips  freely.  Bud  sticks  should 
be  cut  from  some  well-known  tree  and 
the  leaves  trimmed  off  immediately,  leav- 
ing about  one-half  inch  of  the  stem  of  the 
leaf  for  a  handle  for  the  bud.  These  sticks 
should  be  wrapped  in  moist  cloth  until 
93 


94 


HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 


used.     It  is  well  to  procure  special  bud- 
ding  knives,    although   any  knife  with  a 
round     point     can     be 
used. 

For  "T"  Budding: 
Make  a  cut  through  the 
bark  about  half  around 
the  tree  on  the  north 
side  and  about  two 
inches  from  the  ground 
with  a  very  sharp 
round-pointed  knife 
Make  a  longitudinal 
cut  about  one  inch 
long,  cutting  up  to 
the  horizontal  cut 
already  made.  Open 
slightly  the  lips  with 
the  point  of  the  knife, 
or  spatula  if  you 
have  one.  Cut  out  a 
bud  from  the  bud  stick,  putting  the  knife 
about  one-fourth  of  an  inch  below  the  bud, 
taking  out  the  bud  with  little  or  no  wood. 
Use  the  handle  of  the  bud  to  insert  it  into 


1  Bud  ShcH 

2  Buds 


BUDDING 


95 


the  cut  already  made  in  the  stock.     Take 
a  piece  of  damp  raffia  about  six  inches  long 


A  CHEAP,  DURABLE  BUDDING  KNIFE 

and  place  the  centre  of  it  just  below  the 
bud.  Bring  it  around  back  of  the  stock, 
cross  it,  and  bring  it  up  over  the  bud, 
crossing  it  again.  Repeat  this  operation 


Bed  inserted.    Bound  uitti  »n/£a  . 


and  tie  with  a  single  knot  on  the  south 
side.  In  about  ten  days  this  raffia  should 
be  cut  to  prevent  its  girdling  the  tree.  The 
following  spring,  if  the  bud  'is  living,  the 


96        HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

stock  should  be  cut  off  just  above  where 
the  bud  is  inserted,  so  that  the  main  trunk 
will  come  from  the  bud.  All  other  sprouts 
should  be  removed. 


A  COMBINATION  BUDDING  AND  PRUNING  KNIFE 


School  Garden  Bibliography 


CHAPTER  VII 

SCHOOL  GARDEN  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

Report  of  the  School  Garden  Session  of  the  American 
Park  and  Outdoor  Art  Association,  including  the 
following  papers:  "The  School  Garden  as  a 
Phase  of  Industrial  Work,"  by  W.  A.  Baldwin, 
Principal  of  the  State  Normal  School  at 
Hyannis,  Mass.  "Boston  Sand  Gardens,"  by 
Miss  Ellen  M.  Tower,  of  Lexington,  Mass.  "The 
School  Gardens  at  the  School  of  Horticulture," 
by  H.  D.  Hemenway,  Director  of  the  School  of 
Horticulture,  Hartford,  Conn.  "The  National 
Cash  Register  Boys'  Gardens,"  by  George  A. 
Townsend,  Jr.,  of  Dayton,  Ohio.  "Some  Neg- 
lected Millions,"  by  Mr.  Knight,  New  York  City. 
"How  We  Reach  Eighteen  Thousand  School 
Children  in  New  York,"  by  Professor  John  W. 
Spencer,  of  the  Bureau  of  L  Nature-Study  at 
Cornell  University. 

"  Nature  -  Study  for  Children,"  by  George  F. 
Powell,  Director  of  the  School  of  Horticulture  at 
Briar  Cliff  Manor,  New  York. 

Address  Charles  M.  Robinson,  65  So.  Washing- 
ton St.,  Rochester,  N.  Y.     Price,  25  cents. 

Report  of  the  Commissioners  appointed  by  the 
Legislature  in  1899  to  Investigate  and  Report 
upon  the  Methods  of  Procedure  in  this  and 

99 


100      HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

other  States  and  Countries  in  Giving  Instruction 
in  Manual  Training  and  in  the  Theory  and  Art 
of  Agriculture  in  the  Public  Schools.  L.  D. 
Hart,  Commissioner,  Madison,  Wis. 

Hand  Book  for  the  Iowa  School  Edition  of  1900, 
pages  175.  "Rural  School  Improvements," 
Richard  C.  Barrett,  Superintendent  of  Public 
Instruction. 

Report  of  the  Board  of  Trustees  of  Public  Schools 
of  the  District  of  Columbia  for  1898-99,  Superin- 
tendent of  Schools,  Washington,  D.  C.  "Vaca- 
tion Schools,"  pages  49. 

"Manual  Training  in  Public  Schools."  Reprinted 
from  a  report  of  the  Ontario  Educational  Asso- 
ciation, 1901,  by  Professor  James  W.  Robertson, 
Ottawa,  Canada.  Pages  15  "The  Rural  Schools. " 

Annual  Report  of  the  Superintendent  of  Education 
of  the  Public  Schools  of  Nova  Scotia  for  1900, 
Halifax,  Nova  Scotia.  "School  Gardens." 
Pages  27. 

Fifty- first  Missouri  Report  of  Public  Schools, 
W.JP.  Carrington,  State  Superintendent,  Jefferson 
City,  Mo.  "Nature-Study."  Pages  132. 

Teachers'  Manual  for  Elementary  and  High  Schools. 
First  Edition,  1898.  State  of  Nevada,  Carson 
City,  J.  G.  McCarthy,  Superintendent.  "  Nature- 
Study."  Pages  81. 

Manual  of  Elementary  Course  of  Study  for  the  Com- 
mon Schools  of  Wisconsin.  L.  D.  Harvey,  State 
Superintendent.  "  Nature  Lessons.  "  Pages  89. 

"The  Hand  Book  for  Planning  and  Planting  Small 
Home  Grounds,"  by  Warren  H.  Manning. 
Published  by  the  Stout  Manual  Training-School, 
Menomonie,  Wis. 

Manual  of  School  Law,  Nova  Scotia,  1901.     Com- 


SCHOOL  GARDEN  BIBLIOGRAPHY   IOI 

mittee  of  Public  Works  and  Mines,  Halifax, 
Nova  Scotia.  Pages  66. 

Fifty-second  Annual  Report  of  the  Public  Schools 
of  the  City  of  Worcester,  Mass.  Superintendent 
of  Schools,  Worcester,  Mass.  "  Nature- Study 
and  Garden  Work.  "  Pages  48. 

"School  Gardens  at  the  School  of  Horticulture, 
Hartford,  Conn."  by  H.  D.  Hemenway, 
Director  of  the  School  of  Horticulture,  read 
before  Boston  Meeting  of  the  American  Park 
and  Outdoor  Art  Association.  Published  in 
Park  and  Cemetery,  September,  1902,  324  Dear- 
born Street,  Chicago,  Ills. 

"Boys  Trained  for  Citizenship,"  published  in  The 
World  To-day,  October,  1902.  153-155  LaSalle 
Street,  Chicago,  Ills. 

"Garden  Movement  for  Schools,"  by  Dick  J. 
Crosby,  Office  of  Experiment  Stations,  U.  S. 
Department  of  Agriculture.  Published  in  The 
World  To-day,  October,  1902,  153-155  LaSalle 
Street,  Chicago,  Ills. 

"Farming  Industry  in  the  United  States,"  pub- 
lished in  The  World  To-day,  September,  1902, 
153-155  LaSalle  Street,  Chicago,  Ills. 

"School  Gardening  in  the  Boston  Normal  School." 
Published  in  Modern  Methods,  April,  1902, 
New  Eng.  Pub.  Co.,  Boston  and  Chicago. 

"Flower  Gardens  in  Public  Schools,"  by  Jessie  M. 
Good.  Published  in  "How  to  Grow  Flowers," 
October,  1900;  the  Floral  Publishing  Co.,  Spring- 
field, Ohio. 

"The  School  Garden,  State  Normal  School,  Hyannis, 
Massachusetts,"  by  Bertha  Brown.  Published 
in  Journal  of  Education,  April,  1902.  Boston,' 
Mass. 


102      HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

"School     Gardens,"     by     Henry     Lincoln     Clapp, 

Master  George  Putnam  School.     Reprinted  from 

Education,  May,  1901,  Roxbury,  Mass.    Magazine. 

Also  reprinted  in  pamphlet  form. 
"The  School  Garden,"  published  by  State  Normal 

School,  Hyannis,  Mass.     Catalogue  and  Circular. 
"Horticulture  Education  for  Children,"    by  Henry 

Lincoln    Clapp,     Principal    of    George    Putnam 

School,  Roxbury.    Transactions  of  Massachusetts 

Horticultural  Society  for  the  year  1890. 
"School     Gardens,"     by    Henry     Lincoln     Clapp. 

Published     in     Appleton's     Science     Monthly," 

February,  1898. 
"A  Public  School  Garden, "  by  Henry  Lincoln  Clapp. 

Published  in  New  England  Magazine,  June,  1902. 
"School     Gardens,"     by    Henry    Lincoln     Clapp. 

Published  in  Education,  May  and  June,  1902. 
Report  of  the  Committee  on  School  Gardens  and 

Children's     Herbariums     of    the     Massachusetts 

Horticultural    Society,    for    the    year    1900,    by 

Henry  Lincoln  Clapp,  Chairman,  Boston,  Mass. 
"Efforts  of  the  Pupils  of  the  Public  Schools  for 

Home  and  Public  Improvement,"  by  Carthage, 

Mo.,  Public  Schools,  March  i,  1902. 
"Two  Foreign  Schools  and  Their  Suggestions,"  by 

Daniel  S.  Sanford.     Published  in  New  England 

Magazine,    May,    1902.     1133     Broadway,    New 

York  City. 
Prizes     awarded     to     the     Sunday    Post-Despatch 

Gardners.     Published  in  St.  Louis  Post-Despatch, 

September  28,  1902,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 
"The  School  Garden."     Published  in  the  Evening 

Star,  October  18,  1902,  Washington,  D.  C. 
"The   Child   Farmers  of   New   York,"   by   Louise 

Seymour     Houghton.     Published     in     Christian 


SCHOOL  GARDEN  BIBLIOGRAPHY   103 

Work  and  Evangelist,  October  25,  1902.  New 
York  City. 

"The  Country  School  and  the  Country  Child,"  by 
O.  J.  Kern,  County  Superintendent  of  Schools, 
Rockford,  Ills.  Published  in  School  News, 
September,  1902.  Taylorville  and  Chicago,  Ills. 

"The  Country  School  and  the  Country  Child,"  by 
O.  J.  Kern,  County  Superintendent  of  Schools, 
Rockford,  Ills.  Published  in  School  News, 
October,  1902,  Taylorville  and  Chicago,  Ills. 

"The  Country  School  and  the  Country  Child,"  by 
O.  J.  Kern,  County  Superintendent  of  Schools, 
Rockford,  Ills.  Published  in  School  News, 
November,  1902.  Taylorville  and  Chicago,  Ills. 

"The  Country  School  and  the  Country  Child." 
Winnebago  County,  Ills.,  Report. 

Report  of  a  Visit  to  the  Centralized  School  of  Ohio, 
by  O.  J.  Kern,  County  Superintendent  of  Schools, 
Rockford,  Winnebago  County,  Ills. 

"School  Gardens,  Their  Development  and  Func- 
tions," by  Dick  J.  Crosby,  Office  of  Experiment 
Stations  U.  S.  Dept.  Agriculture.  Published  in 
Outlook.  August,  1902.  With  references. 

Reports  of  the  Committee  on  School  Gardens  and 
Children's  Herbariums,  of  the  Massachusetts 
Horticultural  Society  for  the  years  1898,  1899 
and  1901. 

Bulletins  Nos.  121,  160  and  205  of  the  Horticultural 
Division  of  Cornell  University,  Agriculture  Ex- 
periment Station,  Ithaca,  N.  Y. 

National  Cash  Register  Company.  Published  in 
Outdoor  Art  and  Beautiful  House  Edition,  June, 
1899,  Dayton,  Ohio. 

Annual  Distribution  of  Prizes  for  Outdoor  Art  and 
Landscape  Gardening.  Published  by  National 


104      HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

Cash  Register  Company,  June,  1902,  Dayton, 
Ohio. 

"Home  Gardening  Association."  1901,  Cleve- 
land, Ohio.  Report. 

"A  Story  of  Home  Gardens,"  by  Starr  Cadwallader, 
1902,  Cleveland,  Ohio.  Pamphlet. 

"How  to  Beautify  Carthage,"  by  L.  E.  Archias 
Seed  Company,  113-115  Main  Street,  Carthage, 
Mo.  Pamphlet. 

"The  National  Cash  Register  Company."  Pub- 
lished in  Social  Service  for  January,  1902. 
Published  at  287  Fourth  Avenue,  New  York  City. 

Reports  issued  by  the  National  Cash  Register 
Company,  of  Dayton,  Ohio. 

"Report,  Rules  and  Regulations  adopted  by  the 
Park  Commission,  Dayton,  Ohio,  also  Hints, 
Suggestions  on  Street  and  Decorative  Planting, 
Maintenance  of  Trees,  Shrubs,  Lawns,  etc,"  1901. 

"The  Whittier  School  Garden."  Published  in 
The  Southern  Workman  of  November,  1902. 
Published  by  Hampton  Institute  Press. 

"Hampton  Nature-Study  Leaflet  No.  7."  Pub- 
lished by  Hampton  Institute  Press,  Hampton, 
Va. 

' '  Suggestions  for  Progressive  and  Correlative 
Nature-Study,"  by  G.  M.  Carver,  Tuskegee 
Normal  and  Industrial  Institute,  Tuskegee, 
Ala. 

Report  for  1901  of  "Home  Gardening  Association," 
Cleveland,  Ohio,  by  E.  W.  Haines,  President. 

Bulletins  Nos.  62  and  71  of  the  Department  of 
Agriculture  of  State  of  Pennsylvania. 

Government  Reports:  Chapter  XX. — "School  Gar- 
dens _U.  S.  Bureau  of  Education  for  1898  and 
1899. 


SCHOOL  GARDEN  BIBLIOGRAPHY        105 

Chapter  XXXIV. — Extracts  from  Consular  Re- 
port, U.  S.  Bureau  of  Education,  1899.  Pam- 
phlet. 

Chapter  XXVII.— Consular   Reports,  U.  S.  Bu- 
reau of  Education,   1901.     Pamphlet. 
Chapter    XV. — "Public     Playgrounds   and   Va- 
cation Schools,"    U.    S.    Bureau    of    Education, 
1901.     Pamphlet. 

Chapter  XXXIII. — "Methods  of  Instruction  in 
Agriculture."  U.  S.  Bureau  of  Education, 

1899.  Pamphlet. 

Chapter  VI. — "  Education  in  Central   Europe," 
U.  S.  Bureau  of  Education,  1899.     Pamphlet. 
"School  Gardens,"  by  U.  S.  Bureau  of  Education, 

1900.  Washington,  D.  C.     Bulletin. 

"The  Physician's  Influence  in  Vacation  Schools," 
by  Helen  C.  Putnam,  M.  D.  Reprinted  from  the 
Bulletin  of  the  American  Academy  of  Medicine, 
October,  1900.  Pamphlet. 

"School  Gardens  in  Cities,"  by  Helen  C.  Putnam, 
M.  D.  Lecture  given  before  the  Rhode  Island 
Normal  School,  April  i,  1902.  Providence, 
R.  I.  Pamphlet. 

"Agricultural  and  Rural  Life  in  Public  Schools," 
by  Willet  M.  Hays,  Professor  of  Agriculture, 
University  of  Minnesota,  1901.  St.  Anthony 
Park,  Minn.  Bulletin. 

"School  Gardens,'  by  F.  M.  Powell,  M.  D.,  Glen- 
wood,  Iowa.  Read  at  the  Iowa  State  Horticul- 
tural Society,  Des  Moines,  Iowa,  December  14, 
1899.  Report. 

"Farming  in  the  City."  Philadelphia  Vacant  Lot 
Cultivation  Association,  Philadelphia,  Pa., 

1901.  Report. 

"Self-Help    for   Those   Who   Can't   Work   in   the 


106      HOW  TO  MAKE  SCHOOL  GARDENS 

Usual  Business."  Philadelphia  Vacant  Lot  Cul- 
tivation Association,  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  1901. 
Report. 

Second  Annual  Report  of  the  Vacation  School 
Committee,  Hartford,  Conn.,  1902. 

"Beautifying  School  Yards."  Country  Life  in 
America,  April,  1902,  New  York  City. 

"Preparing  School  Gardens."  Home  and  Flowers, 
January  1903,  Springfield,  Ohio. 

"A  Model  Township  Conducted  by  Canadian  Boys.  " 
The  Seattle  Post  Intelligencer,  October  5,  1902. 

"Training  for  Citizenship."  Published  in  Educa- 
tional Journal  of  Western  Canada,  December, 
1902.  Victoria,  B.  C. 

"School  Gardens  in  Rochester,  New  York," 
Country  Life  in  America,  April,  1902.  Double- 
day,  Page  &  Company,  34  Union  Square,  East, 
New  York  City. 

"The  Planting  of  School  Grounds,"  in  Country 
Life  in  America,  April,  1902.  Published  by 
Doubleday,  Page  &  Company,  34  Union  Square, 
East,  New  York. 

"School  Gardens."  Country  Life  in  America, 
March,  1903. 

"A  Successful  School  Garden,"  Country  Life  in 
America,  March,  1903. 

"  School  Gardens  (Department  of  Agriculture  work) , 
January  4,  1903.  The  Washington  Times, 
Washington,  D.  C. 

Report  for  1902.  The  Home  Garden  Association, 
Cleveland,  Ohio. 

School  News,  Taylorville,  Ills.  Nearly  every 
issue  contains  subjects  on  school  gardens. 

"School  Gardens,"  by  F.  M.  Powell,  M.  D.,  Supt. 


SCHOOL  GARDEN  BIBLIOGRAPHY   107 

Iowa  Institution  for  Feeble-Minded  Children, 
Glenwood,  Iowa.  Pamphlet,  1902. 

A  "  Children's  Farm"  in  New  York.  The  Alumni 
Association  of  the  Philadelphia  Normal  School. 
Association  Letter  for  October,  1902  ,  pages  7. 

Second  Annual  Report  of  the  School  of  Horti- 
culture, Hartford,  Conn. 


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